Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Pendrell





Confession: I finished the blouse almost two weeks ago but just haven't had a moment to write it up. Too busy starting the next project! I did still wear it out the next day, so at least it's been worn if not documented. The pics* are of the blouse straight out of the laundry, so it's not perfectly pressed or anything.

* Also, this is not a fabric suited to JPEG compression!

I made a resolution to try out at least one new technique with each project, and on this one I did two. I used Kenneth King's technique to stay the neckline with silk organza, which seems to have worked well so far, but it's really time that will tell if the neckline droops. This did create one slight problem, or at least expose it - I have a giant head! My head could barely fit through the neckhole. Staying the neckline prevents it from stretching out of shape, but that means it couldn't stretch around my head. So I had to try another technique: I added a bias-bound keyhole opening at the back (documented here).
I'm pretty pleased with the result, not it the least because it makes the blouse wearable! Not bad for a first attempt at a new technique. Next time I may use a button instead of the ties, just because it's hard to tie a bow behind your head.

The one other fancy (but not new) technique I used was hand-sewing the hem. A machine sewn hem would stand out way too much on this fabric, especially when I plan on wearing it untucked. So I hand-stitched, making sure the stitches all fell in the black part of the pattern. Pretty invisible, no?


I used one of Joann's shiny polyester** fabrics. I have a weakness for these fabrics, since they feel so smooth and nice on the bolt. Wearing them is another matter. Still, I wanted a relatively cheap fabric to test out the Pendrell pattern before committing to almost 3 yards of expensive charmeuse.

** "Simply silky" they say, I say simply unbreathable.

Can't see it on the dummy pics (obv), but I think I would have been well served to do an FBA. The fabric flows well but doesn't drape, if that makes sense, so I get these folds in the princess seams above the bust. I think I could resolve this just by effectively darting out the excess and incorporating it into the seam. Of course, that is basically what an FBA would do - reduce the width above the bust. Next time!

I cut a size 8 for the bust and waist*** and a 6 for the hips. I think I should have left it at the 8 the whole way - it looks a little straight and boxy. I hemmed it to a good length for wearing untucked, since I never tuck anything in, so it's a little too short to stay tucked. It does look good tucked in tho, so the next one may stay an inch longer.

*** Since any smaller waist size wouldn't fit over the bust to put it on!

I'm not sure how the draped sleeves look on me - my hips and shoulders are pretty much even, and my shoulders are pretty prominent, so the drape adds a bit much to their size. It may just take some getting used to, though - the first time I wore boots with tights I thought it looked off, and now I'm practically living in that outfit this winter. I can see how this is a very flattering pattern for pear shapes - it adds oomph to the top/shoulders without being obvious about it.

All in all, the Pendrell is a fun pattern, and it sewed up nice and quickly. I need to wear it a few more times before I can decide on the draped sleeve, but if I get used to it, I will be knocking out a few more of these!

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